I think that is why it has lasted all these years. I have always performed regular maintenance on it and have pressure washed it off many times over the years and blow everything out regularly. I took that main connector apart and cleaned it a bit and put some of the eclectic conductor gel on it before I put it back together. My 520 was running untill I got the bright idea of switching coils! Thank you for the schematic and help! I will keep it with my owners manual! and look for the white connector. I went out and bought my 3rd wheel horse this summer only because both of my machines went down and I couldnt get any help in fixing them. If it were me I would do the valves and de-carbon as it is easily done by anyone with a small amount of tools. Proper maintenance is the key to longevity. The problem is that Wheel Horse installs them sideways and this invites the heating problem because of the close quarters in the Wheel Horse application. But if they simply follow maintenance directions these engines will last forever. It takes a bad hit because of the rear cylinder. This acts as a cover to prevent the flow of air from escaping around the filter so that it is directed where it can do the most good. Also if after changing the oil the rubber ring that inserts on the outside of the filter has been lost or simply not replaced, get a new on and put it on. This is an important step to follow because it constricts the flow of air around the engine and cause the rear cylinder to overheat. If you don't want to do the valves, at least clean the crud out. Onan recommends Valve adjustment and de-carbon be done every 500 hours. after power washing this completely, take off the heads and adjust the valves. I will bet you will find an enormous amount of dirt, crud combined with oil behind the rear engine shroud where the filter is. Remove the engine and take off all the tins on it. Or you might want to wait till the mowing season is over. I have a suggestion for you that may save you untold problems in the future but will entail additional work now. Most of the electronics pass through this connection. Have you checked the nine pin connector? it gets dirty and corroded and after so many yers of use can cause all kinds of problems.Īs you can see from this image, I have an arrow pointing to the connector. See no breaks or worn spots on anything in the harness Edited Septemby Jess I checked all of the saftey switches, seat, break, motion lever ext. Dont know why it is trying to quit when I put The PTO on? The switch and the contacts to it are all clean and look good.īut at least its starting for now. That is the first time I have ever taken the seat and the fenders off in 28 years. But when I put my meter on the stator connections I have no reading ? I dont have the deck back on but I put the PTO on just to try it and when I did the tractor wants to die? I pulled the seat off and the back fender and cleaned all of the switches and checked them all with my meter and looked over all of the wiring and everything looked good and checked out. My volt meter was reading completly over in the high side like it has done for some time now. Went out this morning and it started right up again ? I ran it for some time and it restarted but my fuel guage and volt meter werent showing ? I moved the wiring harness around and they started working. This post has been promoted to an article A standard automotive tail light will also put the module under approximately the same load and provide a good simulation of the ignition coil load. When the trigger ring is rotated near the "nose" of the module, one of the two magnets embedded in the trigger ring will turn off the lamp and continued rotation of the ring will pass the second magnet over the "nose" and once again turn on the lamp.Īn ignition coil puts about a 3 - 4 amp load on the ignition module. The modules I have tested so far power have all powered up with the tail light on. IF NO LOAD (lamp or ign coil) IS PRESENT IN THIS LEAD THE MODULE WILL BE DESTROYED. One Caution - DO NOT TOUCH THE BLACK MODULE LEAD TO 12 VOLT POWER AT ANY TIME. All the wiring and testing can be accomplished on the bench. The diagram below shows how to wire up a standard tail lamp assembly and a few alligator clips to complete the testing. A little time saver to confirm an Onan ignition module is functional prior to installing it, reassembling the engine and keeping your fingers crossed.
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